In the previous post, we
discuss on types
of perfume. In that post we saw how the composition of fragrance to alcohol
can affect the longevity of the perfume which in turn determines the type of
perfume. What if you put the highest percentage of fragrance to alcohol and it
still does not last? The next step is to use what perfumers have been using for
donkey years. It is called fixative and that is what today’s post is all
about.
A fixative according to wikipedia is used to equalize the vapor pressures, and thus the volatilities, of the raw materials in a perfume oil, as well as to increase the tenacity.
Fixative can help increase the longevity of your perfume by slowing down the rate at which the perfume evaporates. It is advisable to put little amount of fixative in your perfume in order not to completely alter the perfume. It is also necessary to select the fixative whose smell closely relates to your desired perfume scent. Fixative before long has been used to anchor perfume.
Some of these fixatives requires blending them with alcohol and leaving them to stay for at least three weeks or a month before blending them with the fragrance. The amount of fixative depends on the fixative you are using. As usual, I advise people to work with their instinct but be careful not to put so much. Some require just a range of 3 – 10%. Animal fixative should just be in drops.
Fixative falls under three categories.
Agreeable
. Non – agreeable.
Neutral
There are three ways that one can ‘fix’ a scent
- Adding fixatives to the alcohol to match the final perfume. This is highly recommended.
- Blending in scents that are related to the scent you are trying to create.
- Exalting fixatives is the final fixative that improve or fortify the main scent and are usually composed of animal notes that soften and smooth harsh notes.
Some Common Natural Fixatives (plants):
I have provided a list of some common natural fixative that has been used since the history of perfumery began. You may not find all of these in your local chemical store, but you can make do with what they have or place an order online.
Ambretta Seed
Amyris
Angelica Root
Balsam of Peru
Cedarwood, Atlas
Cistus / Labdanum
Clary Sage
Cognac
Frankincense
Galbanum
Liquidambar (Styrax)
Myrrh
Oakmoss
Orris Root
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Vanilla
Vetiver
Violet Leaf
Synthetic Fixative
Synthetic fixatives help to extend the tenacity of natural fragrance ingredients. These include musks, but also things like vertofix, cedramber, ambroxan, evernyl and many others. All these fixatives will modify the fragrance. That is why it is advisable to use them in trace amount.
Iso E Super, Hedione and Benzyl silicate are three synthetic fixative
often recommended as being able to increase the longetivity of your fragrance
while having a relatively minimal odour profile of their own.
Ethylene brassylate is cheap and tenacious and seen to enhance both projection and tenacity of ethanol. Enhancers are synthetic fixatives that don’t really replicate anything in nature but are widely used to enhance many commercial fragrance.
So far, we’ve learned how to make perfume last longer than usual.
Remember some fragrance or essential oil naturally don’t last long so these
fixatives help to retain their scent properties. Some people prefer natural
fixative while some prefer synthetic fixative. The ball is in your court right
now.
Get the fixatives, get your essential oil and alcohol, go to your home laboratory
and experiment on which of these fixatives blend or amplify your fragrance.
Now that you have learnt how to prolong the scent of your perfume, you can also learn how to store your perfume for durability. Click here
Now that you have learnt how to prolong the scent of your perfume, you can also learn how to store your perfume for durability. Click here
If you find it useful, or you have any question, leave a comment below..
Have a great day!
Have a great day!
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ReplyDeleteHello why these oils are made of stabilizers
ReplyDeleteHello Alkarraz, Some oil naturally have the ability to retain their scent. They are made of fixative because they have the ability of prolonging the life span of other essential oils. I.e they have the ability to slow down evaporation rate of other oils.Some essential oils by nature do not last long even in their pure form.
DeleteHello, please what are the differences among agreeable, non-agreeable and natural fixatives.
ReplyDeleteAgreeable fixative when applied will prevent rapid evaporation and also improve the projection of the actual perfume.
ReplyDeleteNon- Agreeable fixative will prevent rapid evaporation but may change the smell of the perfume.
Neutral will neither improve on the perfume projection nor change the smell rather it does only the work of preventing rapid evaporation.
Hi John, Thank you for this great article!! I wonder do you recommend use of the same fixatives for non-alcoholic perfume? or do you have other recommendation. Thank you again for sharing your expertise and Thank you in advance for taking the time to respond to my question. Best Regards
ReplyDeleteYou can still make use of the same fixative for non alcoholic Perfume. But make sure it is soluble in the solvent you're using to dilute. For example,if your solvent is water, check to see if your fixative is soluble in water.
DeleteThis will give time for top notes (for the most part incorporated into perfumes to establish first connection) to vanish best mens cologne
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ReplyDeletePlease what is the difference between perfume and body spray?
ReplyDelete